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I
Which is a Diamond II
Become a Gemologist

diamonds
way up in northern tundra of the so-called Barren Lands. I was dumbstruck.
I had never heard of diamonds in North America, and certainly never heard
of the Barren Lands. It sounded like another planet. Being the kind of
person who dreams about faraway places--and then tries to get to them--of
course I had to go. I got myself an assignment from Discover magazine
to cover the strike, and things developed from there over a period of
about six years. I got to know the prospectors quite well, and their
bizarre story. I went back to the Barrens a half-dozen times. I can say
it is the most wild and beautiful place on Earth. Unexpectedly, I also
ended up spending many months in libraries. It was there I discovered
a centuries-long secret history of diamond hunters in the U.S. and Canada,
all looking for these diamonds, this place. After that, I had to tell
the whole story.
Where are the Barren Lands and why has this territory, seemingly on the
very edge of the earth, continued to attract so much attention in the
past few years?
KRAJICK: The Barrens are on the edge of
the earth. They’re at the very top and center of the North American continent
in Canada’s Northwest Territories—as far as you can go without falling
off into the Arctic Ocean. It’s 500,000 square miles with no roads, towns
or people. It’s called the Barren Lands because it is past the northern
limit where trees grow, and it is extremely harsh and dangerous. Fipke
and Blusson sparked a giant staking rush, like the Klondike, with 260
companies airlifting in crews--a single diamond mine can be worth $70
billion. In 1998 Fipke/Blusson’s partners opened a huge diamond mine,
the Ekati—North America’s first. Now, instantly, Canada is a world diamond
power, threatening the De Beers cartel. There also turns out to be gold,
uranium and other minerals there—and probably more diamonds, because
exploration is still ongoing. Beyond the outdoor adventure and business
aspects, this raises profound environmental questions. Up to now that
remote part of the world has never faced the development taking over
everything else. Now it may.
Despite their harshness, the Barren
Lands have drawn prospectors for centuries. What were those explorers
looking for, at least initially, and why did rumors persist of hidden
treasures to be found there?
KRAJICK: The original
prospectors were Indians and Inuit. For millennia they traveled through
the Barrens, and they found native copper—pure, unalloyed metal—just
lying on the ground. This was a fabulous treasure for them, because it
made good spears, fishhooks, etc. They killed each other over it. European
fur traders reached the Hudson Bay coast in the 1670s, and heard rumors
of this fabulous “Coppermine” far west. A lot tried finding it, but there
were no maps or navigable rivers, and walking was incredibly dangerous.
Many died. My favorite was a British sailor, Samuel Hearne, who was not
a prospector at all--just a nice, blond-haired young fellow ordered by
the Hudson Bay Co. to go find this place. He walked 3,500 miles with
the Indians from 1769 to 1772. He starved, froze, shredded his feet and
participated in a horrific massacre. I think of him as Canada’s Meriwether
Lewis—the first outsider to really travel the interior. He never found
anything, and published an absolutely heart-stopping journal before drinking
himself to death. After that, the legend would never die. Everyone from
Sir John Franklin to Ernest Seton, co-founder of the Boy Scouts, showed
up to hunt gold, copper, whatever, to the present day. It turns out the
Barrens have the world’s oldest rocks, and indications of all kinds of
minerals in there. The only thing the earlier guys didn’t think
of was diamonds.
Your book tells an incredible 450-year
saga of adventurers who hunted diamonds all over the continent. Can you tell us something about these
diamond hunters and the trail of clues they were following?
KRAJICK: The
first diamond hunter was the very first European to sail into interior
North America--the French explorer Jacques Cartier. He sailed up the
St. Lawrence River in the 1530s and spotted sparkly things in the rocks--quartz
crystals, but he thought they were diamonds. Europe went crazy until
the truth came out. That’s where you get the French proverb “Voila!
Un diamant du Canada!”-- the rough equivalent of the American saying, “Phony
as a three-dollar bill.” But then, incredibly, a few hundred years later,
people did start finding real diamonds. Everyone’s forgotten about this
now, but in the early 1800s, millions of dollars’ worth of gold was panned
in Georgia, Virginia and other Southern states, and in the washings,
some guys found small diamonds. The first documented was by Dr. M.F.
Stephenson near Brindletown, N.C., in 1843—1 carat and apparently quite
nice. By the way, he’s the man credited with saying, “Thar’s gold in
them thar hills!” After that, a lot of the nicest ones were found by
accident, usually by kids playing. Their eyes are close to the ground,
you know, and they pick up things just out of curiosity. There are now
about 25 states and Canadian provinces now where loose diamonds have
turned up. Hundreds of companies have followed up on random finds, but
no one could find the sources—the ore, which would be minable. Americans,
and later Canadians, became mad for diamonds. There have been failed
diamond rushes from rural Kentucky to Syracuse, New York, and endless
scams involving nonexistent diamonds. The boldest was the Great Diamond
Hoax of 1872, which took in Charles Tiffany, Gen. George McClellan and
Horace Greeley, and nearly wrecked the U.S. stock market.
You were there in
1998 when Fipke and Blusson’s
mine opened. Can you describe
the natural environment?
KRAJICK:
Source: www.barrenlands.com (for the rest of the interview)
QUESTION: How did you get started on a book called “Barren Lands?”
KRAJICK: In 1994 I read an article in The New York Times saying that a couple of small-time Canadian prospectors, Chuck Fipke and Stewart Blusson, had hit
